Suits You: 10 Tailoring & Bespoke Tips
September 21, 2010 by Arash Mazinani
Filed under All Content, Gentlemen, Style Tips
I know I’m probably jumping the gun a bit here writing this article before we have done a feature on suiting in general. But I recently saw a piece on bespoke suits that inspired me to do a little taster. I’ve always been a fan of tailoring and while I don’t own a bespoke suit myself it is definitely something I want to add to my wardrobe at some point in the future. There is just something about having an item of clothing that’s been crafted to fit you perfectly and that is a one of a kind.
Forget designer labels, bespoke labels are where it’s at! After your suit is finished with the lining of your choice you get your very own label usually with your name and the date the suit was born. If you visit Savile Row’s Spencer Hart you’re likely to find something along the lines ‘ Hand made for (your name) in the year of 20**. Spencer Hart sincerely hopes you get laid in this product. How about that for a label! If you’ve ever considered getting a bespoke suit or just interested in tailoring in general then check out these tips that you should definitely know.
- A made to measure suit is created using a basic template pattern then roughly altered to fit you. This is not bespoke at all.
- When opting for the choice of colour of your fabric don’t get too carried away otherwise you may end up looking like a pimp. Try going for a good quality fabric in a sober colour.
- Likewise be careful picking your lining, go for a contrasting colour or something classic like black, white, grey or pale blue. Red linings are a no no.
- On a bespoke suit you’ll be offered functioning cuff buttons, ask for four but the bottom two need only to work.
- Avoid too many pleats on your trousers as they’re old fashioned.
- When ever you’re going to try on a suit alway wear a favourite shirt and remember you should never show more than half an inch of cuff.
- The more colourful your suit the less often you’ll get to wear it.
- The buttons should be horn and the lapels hand stitched, check that there is felt under the collar also. Check that there is a canvas interlining otherwise the jacket will crinkle when it is first dry cleaned.
- Your suit should have rope shoulders, where the tops of the sleeves stand proud of the shoulders and definitely go for a nipped in waist.
- Never be intimidated by the tailor. You are a client the tailor is there to give you advice if for what ever reason they are not interested in doing what you ask for then go some where else.
Let us know what you think of our 10 tips by having your say below.
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I am not even in the market for a suit but find this very accurate.
Wow! What a great post – I did not know that about the cuff buttons on bespoke suits. Learnt a lot from this post, I’ve bookmarked it for when I might have to make a suit